Guides

How to actually eat in China

Long-form pieces on the parts of Chinese food culture that don't translate — what locals eat for breakfast, how to order with no English menu, and which shops are worth crossing the city for.

A classic Shanghai food shop frontage in the streets inland from the Bund Food

Fifteen Minutes From The Bund, The Food Changes Completely

The Bund's own restaurants speak fluent English and take every card. Walk fifteen minutes inland and you're in a different Shanghai: older, cheaper, better. A walking loop with five stops and a total budget under ¥150.

6 days ago · 3 min read

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Stacked bamboo steaming baskets at a Shanghai dumpling shop Food

Liang, Long, Zhi — How Shanghai Actually Sells Its Food

Nothing at an old-school Shanghai shop is sold by "a portion". Noodles come in liang, buns come in liang, dumplings come in long, pancakes come in zhang. The unit system nobody translates — decoded.

6 days ago · 4 min read

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A Shanghai noodle counter with handwritten order slips clipped above the broth pots Food

How To Order Noodles In Shanghai Like You Live Here

Hard noodles or soft. Soup on the side or in the bowl. Scallions held back or doubled. The words that change what arrives at your table — and the ones that just get you fed.

6 days ago · 4 min read

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Glossy red-braised pork belly, one of Shanghai's benchmark benbang dishes Food

The 10 Tables Every First-Time Visitor Should Eat At In Shanghai

Not the ten fanciest, not the ten most famous — the ten places where the food is genuinely good, the price is genuinely small, and the experience is genuinely Shanghai. Ranked, mapped, and ordered in Chinese.

6 days ago · 4 min read

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A lantern-hung lane inside Yu Garden Bazaar with small restaurants and snack stalls Food

Eating At Yu Garden Without Getting Trapped

Yu Garden Bazaar is where the invention of the soup dumpling is genuinely worth seeing — and where the worst meal of your trip is genuinely possible to buy. Telling the two apart requires exactly one rule: look at who is eating.

6 days ago · 3 min read

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A plate of dry-style pan-fried pork buns, ready to point at on a phone screen How-to

How to Order Food in China With No English

You don't need to speak Chinese. You need to copy, paste and point. The exact five moves that get food in front of you — plus the sentences that fix things when it goes wrong.

7 days ago · 4 min read

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Four dry-style shengjian bao with crisp browned bases and sesame tops Food

The Two Schools of Shanghai's Pan-Fried Bun

One bursts with scalding soup. One has almost none. Locals have been arguing about which is correct for a century — and most visitors only ever meet the wrong one.

7 days ago · 3 min read

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A shengjian bao shop on a Shanghai side street at 7am, steam rising from the pan Food

Where Shanghai Eats Breakfast

Four breakfasts, four street windows you would walk straight past. What locals eat before nine, what it costs, and the Chinese words that get it in front of you.

7 days ago · 5 min read

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